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              原生態風情

              2018-11-30 10:22| 來自: 中國散文網|作者: 廣東省 陳敏儀|編輯: admin| 查看: 4874| 評論: 0

                由中國詩歌會組織的中國作家詩人采風行——多彩貴州美麗黔東南詩意之旅系列活動,于2017年7月18~22日在貴州舉行。我有幸受邀參加了這場文學活動。

                活動安排之一,前往黔東南苗族侗族自治州,體驗原生態的民族風情。

                岜沙苗寨——世界上最后一個槍手部落。

                7月19日7:30分,我們一行二十多位作家詩人及其親友,乘坐旅游大巴,從貴陽出發,奔赴第一站:岜沙苗寨。

                經過六個多小時的車程,我們來到了岜沙。寨門簡樸,高大的木門坊,中間掛著牛頭標志,寫著“岜沙”。門站著兩個苗族漢子,一身黑色衣服,皮膚黝黑,腰間掛刀,地下一桿秤,兩個西瓜。旁邊豎著一塊木牌,寫著“世界上最后一個槍手部落”。

                沿著小路進寨,沿途都是參天的古樹,古樹身上寫著“生命樹”。導游介紹說,岜沙人視樹為生命,父母在孩子出生后要為孩子種一棵樹,并精心養護,讓樹茁壯成長,這樹作為孩子死后的棺木。岜沙人崇樹祭樹,從不亂砍濫伐樹木。一路走來,環境清幽。一會,看到

                一棵大樹上掛著兩條粗大的草繩子,那是村民的娛樂——秋千。經過一個小亭,亭子里供奉香樟木,為了感恩毛主席。幾個苗家姑娘坐亭子邊做刺繡活兒,聽姑娘說,她們的衣服都是自己一針一線縫制的,不外賣。

                繼續往前走,小石徑兩旁種上了豆角、葫蘆瓜、玉米等農作物,青翠雅致。走進一戶村民家里,門前擺著出售的苖家服飾、紙傘等物品。登上木閣樓,村寨全景盡收眼底。岜沙坐落在月亮山山麓,四面綠樹青山環抱,炊煙繚繞。閣樓上還介紹了樹葬風俗。

                來到岜沙寨子的中心廣場,廣場中央一棵枝干粗壯的樹,只有少量綠葉,旁邊一塊巨石寫著“岜沙”。一位老者扛著火槍,站在廣場邊,同樣一身青黑衣服,寬大直筒褲,發型奇特,是由巫師用鐮刀剃的,稱為“戶棍”,婦女盤發,別上花,上身大襟衣,下穿百褶裙,

                以青黑色為主彩線繡上花朵。稱為“秦時發式漢時裝”。

                年長的婦女有些坐在樹蔭下乘涼,有些在及廊里聊天。游客的到訪,似乎與他們無關。狗狗隨處可見。

                巨石后面是一排新蓋的民宿——岜沙客棧,樓上掛著紅燈籠,木頭做的柵欄,綠色攀藤植物點綴其中,門前種了幾株大麗花,很鮮艷,顯得春意盎然。

                沿著小巷走近民房,吊腳樓古樸簡單,上面住人,下面養豬。狗吠小徑中,雞鳴野草叢。

                這是一個從蚩尤祖先傳下來的古老的村寨,這里的生活安寧沒有喧鬧,仿佛與世隔絕。不禁想起陶淵明的《桃花源記》,土地平曠,屋舍儼然,阡陌交通,雞犬相聞,男女衣著,悉如外人,黃發垂髫,并怡然自樂。于是有感而發,寫下《卜算子?岜沙》(新韻)

                古木葉枝繁,村寨藏山麓。裊裊炊煙繞綠莊,春色門庭駐。

                戶棍火槍持,繡女織當戶。夢里桃源在此逢,陶令何曾遇?

                肇興侗寨——侗鄉第一寨

                從加榜梯田前往肇興侗寨,路途遙遠,到達肇興侗寨已是晚上十點多了。坐了一天的車,很疲累,加上饑腸轆轆。十點半吃過晚飯,拖著行李箱,沿著凹凸的石板路,前往入住的鄉鳳閣,侗寨的夜晚,在橘黃的燈光下顯出它的嫵媚。房間外面是一條小河,河水嘩嘩地流

                淌。這晚,水聲伴著倦意入眠。

                7月20日早上吃過早餐,收拾好行李,往寨外走,這時,才認認真真看看肇興侗塞。肇興侗寨靜靜地躺在山谷之間,四面重巒疊嶂,茂林修竹;一條小河穿寨而過,流水清淺;干欄式的吊腳樓分布在小河兩邊,依山而建。還有五座小型拙樸的花轎,以配五座高大宏偉的鼓

                樓。據導游介紹,鼓樓是侗寨的標志,吉祥的象征,是侗族人休閑的場所,也是祭祀的地方。其中一座鼓樓上有一副楹聯:鼓樂聲聲京城震動雄證當今盛世;樓閣巍巍侗寨歡呼謳歌天下太平。花橋,又叫風雨橋,是侗家人休息納涼,遮陽避雨的場所,也是年輕人娛樂浪

                漫的地方。

                沿著石板大街往寨外走,街道兩邊有侗族人的早市,有賣豬肉瓜菜的,也有賣早餐水果的,蠟染的衣服引起我的好奇。

                寨門前有一個詩意的角落——那時花開驛站,這是一家小店鋪,外面有一張木做的秋千椅,紫紅色的牽牛花爬滿欄桿,讓我忍不住去那里坐坐,回想從前的時光。

                寨門右側前方有一片稻田,稻田旁有灌溉的水車。青翠的稻田如一塊大翡翠,吸引女詩人們,她們跑到田埂上起舞翩躚,融入大自然的氣息里。

                一陣曼妙的歌聲響起,身穿盛裝的侗族妹子們站成一排,唱起動聽的侗族大歌,侗族小伙們吹著蘆笙伴奏。這歌聲如山澗的泉水一般明凈,如枝頭跳躍的雀兒一樣輕靈,這是天籟,也是人類最純凈的心靈之聲。余秋雨先生贊美“千年侗寨,醉美肇興”,我也在這里找到

                了最舒心的那一碗純真與澄澈……
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