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              養在深閨人未識——憶七十年代難忘的九寨黃龍二日游

              2018-11-30 10:24| 來自: 中國散文網|作者: 廣東省 丁培恭|編輯: admin| 查看: 4912| 評論: 0

                朋友,你去過九寨溝、黃龍嗎?

                今天這兩處風景,九寨被譽為童話世界,黃龍被譽為人間瑤池,都是聞名遐邇的世界自然遺產。

                四十多年前,一個偶然的機會,我游覽了這兩處風光,目睹養在深閨人未識的仙女們的真容,同時我也聽到打破深山寂靜的伐木聲聲,仙女的臉頰畫上了一道道傷痕。

                四十多年過去了,難忘的二日游至今仍記憶猶新,一幅幅美麗的山水畫時時浮現眼前。

                那是一九七三年夏天,阿壩州松潘縣小河學校首屆初中生畢業了,我如釋重負可以稍稍休整了,于是我聯系了縣里工作的王維中,王是我重慶一中同學,畢業于北京大學地球物理系。我們決定利用幾天時間到近處據說風光不錯、尚未開發的九寨溝、黃龍看看。

                乘坐松潘縣農機廠的小貨車出行,車上放了幾把小椅子,貨車成了“敞篷小客車”,農機廠的幾位朋友上了車,其中有一位李懷忠師傅,李師傅是一位大學生,比我們早幾年進州,是我們熟悉的朋友。李說他之前去過九寨,這次可為我們當向導了。

                汽車奔馳在松南(當時九寨溝屬南坪縣)公路上,在一塊寫有“九寨溝”三個大字的木牌旁停車。李師傅介紹說,這條溝里有九個藏族寨子,九寨溝也由此得名,溝里還有兩個伐木場,這木牌是九寨溝的一個標識,同時也是長途客車的一個臨時停車站。

                短暫停車后,汽車拐進了彎彎曲曲的伐木小路,山清水秀風光一路,突然一聲巨響,山槽中滾落下來一大批樹木,李師傅說這是伐木場的工人在伐木、放木,砍下的樹木沿槽滑下直達水邊,再水路運出。大家都納悶了,這樣好的風景還要伐木,繼續砍伐下去,以后哪有

                風景可看?

                路不平起起伏伏汽車一路顛簸在一湖邊停下,剛一下車眼前的神奇美景把我驚呆了,暈車的我頓感眼前一亮,頭腦格外清新。李師傅說九寨有許多大大小小的湖泊,當地人稱“海子”,水明靜清澈,藍天白云和周圍美麗的風景倒映在水中更顯得神奇,這里除了海子,還

                有許多瀑布、群山、原始森林都是原生態,很美喲!

                我們走近觀賞,當時除長海還真叫不出那么多海子的名字,也許有的還未取名,只覺得:大而闊的海子,晶瑩見底,水中游魚樹枝清晰可見;小而秀的海子玲瓏瑰麗,湖光變幻,斑駁陸離;密林中的海子古樹環繞,奇花簇擁,光彩奪目。一大瀑布從密林中奔流而出,氣

                勢如虹,吼聲如雷,水霧騰騰,恰似一幅壯麗的山水畫懸掛在半空中。

                珍珠灘,是一片緩緩的斜坡石灘,翡翠般碧綠的水從樹叢中流出,撞擊石礁,撒落出串串“珍珠”。那時景區自然開放無人管理,游人自由自在淌水來到灘上,親吻“珍珠”,嬉水流連。

                告別珍珠灘,汽車沿著水溪旁的伐木公路慢慢行駛,漸漸地一座普通而古樸的磨坊映入眼簾,它與近水、綠樹、遠山渾然一體成了一道別致的風景。在大山里見到這樣的景物感到格外親切,車在磨坊前停下,王維中建議,下去看看,我們走近磨坊,見到幾位藏族婦女在

                坊內磨面。水流緩緩,石磨悠悠地轉,這里一切顯得是那樣自然、寧靜而和諧。由于進溝的人少,沒有打破藏胞平靜閑適的生活。(幾年后古樸的磨坊成了電影《自古英雄出少年》的一處盛景。

                從李師傅的介紹中我們還了解到,九寨的峰,近有青巒疊嶂,遠有皚皚雪峰,這里的林青翠欲滴,到了秋天則是另一番景象:楓葉正紅,層林盡染。

                深夜汽車返回松潘。

                休整一天后我和王維中繼續游黃龍。因黃龍不通公路只好騎馬前往。馬隊翻越一座四千多米的雪山,穿過原始森林,來到遠近聞名的黃龍。因岷山主峰雪寶頂下有一條幾公里長綴滿乳黃巖石和金沙鋪就的溝谷緩坡,遠遠地望去猶如一條蜿蜒于山林中的黃龍,黃龍正因此

                得名。黃龍寺廟自清朝以來一直有藏漢信眾絡繹不絕前來燒香拜佛。原有前中后三寺,中寺不知何時已徹底毀掉,僅留下地上印跡,前寺也只剩殘留的廟宇,只有后寺還保存完好。

                過前寺我們來到一處似《西游記》中的水簾洞——洗身洞,為仙人洗沐凈身之處,我們像猴子似的跑步進入洞中,以躲過洞前飄灑而來的簾子雨。從水簾洞出來,由于黃龍當時沒有保護棧道、廊橋,我們在一片金黃色軟沙鋪就的斜灘上緩慢行進。(現為保護景區免遭踐

                踏,游人只能在棧道或木架橋上行走)

                在游覽中我的一位家住黃龍鄉的學生告訴我們,黃龍有林種繁多的原始森林、有錦繡的深山峽谷,還有終年積雪的雪寶頂,然而景中精華是那絢麗的五彩池。當時我們只覺得一片一片的彩池精彩絕倫,讓人目不暇接。現在了解到黃龍是目前世界上景象最壯觀,色彩最豐

                富的露天鈣化彩池群,池中的水天藍、碧綠、乳黃......在周邊景色映襯和陽光照射下更是色彩繽紛,嫵媚可人。

                黃龍后寺有古式廟宇建筑,里面有多尊菩薩,還有雕梁畫棟寺廟旁邊又是一大片彩池,寺廟背后是巍峨挻拔的岷山主峰雪寶頂,在陽光照射下冰雪鑄就的金字塔似的峰巔閃閃發光,環繞它的是翻滾的云濤。

                在后寺聽當地藏胞說,附近有黃龍寺和尚姚善人的墓穴,五十年代末要求人們無一例外的下山去公社食堂吃飯,老和尚年事已高,來回要走二十多里路,一氣之下修好墓穴,進入墓中,盤腿而坐,再也沒有出來,我們走近墓穴,掀開一塊石板,見內有一堆白骨。此乃黃

                龍一傳說故事,無從考證。

                后寺有黃龍洞,我和王維中進入洞中,里面光線較暗,但石鐘乳、石筍仍清晰可見,再往里走則水漸深,我們便掃興而出。

                黃龍的許多景點都原生態,當時都沒名稱,其后的迎賓彩池,爭艷彩池,金沙鋪地,丹云峽等都是隨旅游的開發,時任松潘縣委辦公室主任的川師大中文系畢業生楊正康等人命名的。

                相距不遠的兩處風景,九寨溝宛如一頂美麗的皇冠,黃龍則是鑲嵌在皇冠上的一顆熣燦的明珠。

                七十年代末,八十年代初經伐木工人以及進溝考察專家、學者的呼吁,建言,強烈要求保護罕見自然景觀,保護珍稀動物大熊貓金絲猴,1982年九寨溝停止伐木,成立了九寨溝管理局。當年九寨溝、黃龍分別被評為國家級風景名勝區,1992年兩處又被聯合國教科文組織

                列入世界自然遺產。

                八十年代初我已在松潘縣中工作,一九八三年與家人一起舊地重游九寨溝,帶上了我們新添置的海鷗120黑白相機,這次要購票進入,對相鄰的松潘縣的游客每人僅收費一元五角。在“九寨溝”本牌下拍了一張兩人照。(圖8家人合影)

                今天的九寨、黃龍在原生態的基礎上,經過精心設計,精心管理,又鑄入一些現代元素,與過去相比已大不一樣。但不變的是靈魂,是大自然賦予的先輩們傳承的自然美、環境美、生態美。

                衷心祝愿童話世界九寨溝、人間瑤池黃龍比翼齊飛,為錦繡中華,為大千世界綻放出更加絢麗更加奪目的光彩!
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